Safety Tips

 

 

Experienced Rider Course

Storing your bike for winter

Springtime - Time to Ride!

Hot Weather Riding

Do's and Don'ts of Service and Safety

Pre Ride Checklist

Experienced Rider Course

A date has been secured for the spring experienced riders course. The course is scheduled to be held on Saturday May 9, 2009 at 1pm and will be conducted by Trama Motorcycle School at thier Farmingdale College location. The fee for a class of twelve riders is $90 per rider. Applications are availble at Tramas.com or available at the dealership (see Nick). Applications are being Accepted on a first come first serve basis until April 23,2009. Application can be submitted to either Tracy (Safety Officer) or to Nick at the dealership. As discussed at the last meeting, the course basically pays for itself. since H.O.G. will reimburse each successful rider $50 (in HOG cash) for completing the course, and combine this with the discount from your insurnace company once you submit the certificate of completion, the course is almost free. Successful students also receive a pin and patch featuring the "Safe Rider Skills" logo.
As a further incentive, H.O.G. chapters with at least 12 members completing a course in a single calendar year will receive special recognition: a Safe Rider Skills plaque.

Riders must have with them on the day of class.
*DOT helmet and eye protection
*Proof of registration and insurance
*Valid motorcycle license
*Current ny stae inspection
*Full fingered gloves
*Over the ankle boots
*Jacket
*Long pants
** A FULL TANK OF GAS**(you will need a full tank, it has been proven)

Tramas cancellation policy
Trama must be notified at least one week prior to the scheduled date,failure to do so will result in the forfeiture of your payment. No exceptions, No substitutions, No make ups.

Thanks and Ride Safe

Storing your bike for winter

Well, it's that time of year again! Soon the snow will be falling and the motorcycles will be tucked away for the winter

And each spring the dealer's phone will ring off the wall with customers who did not store the bike properly and now wonder why it won't run.

Some preparation now will ensure that you are out riding in the spring instead of waiting in the dealer's lineup.

1. Location - where are you going to put it?

One solution may be to ask your dealer if he offers a storage program. This is ideal because he will often prep, store, and have the bike ready to ride when you are ready again. If you decide to store it yourself, you will need a place that is dry and out of harm's way.

When possible, chose a location away from windows. The ultraviolet light can fade paint and plastic parts. Direct sunlight can raise the ambient temperature of the storage area that will promote condensation when the sun goes down, so cover plain glass with some sort of opaque material. Also, cover your bike with a specially designed bike cover not a sheet or a tarp. Why? Because a sheet absorbs moisture and hold it against metal surfaces and then rust forms. Also, damp fabric will breed mildew and this may attack the seat material. A tarp prevents moisture from getting in but it also prevents it from getting out. Moisture trapped will condense on the bike and then the rust monster is back!

A specially designed motorcycle cover is made of a mildew resistant material. The material is slightly porous, so it can breathe.


2. Change The Oil

Tip: Just like cars a colder winter grade oil will allow your bike to start easier in colder weather. If your motorcycle runs ok with a cold winter grade oil (5w30) then changing the oil to this grade will help startup and running in spring.

Even if the oil is not due for a change, byproducts of combustion produce acids in the oil that will harm the inner metal surfaces. Warm the engine to its normal operating temperature, as warm oil drains much faster and more completely.

While you are at it, why not change the filter too? Add fresh motorcycle grade oil. Remember to dispose of the drained oil and old filter in a responsible manner. What to do with the old oil? Recycle it. Most stores you have purchased the oil from will take it back free of change to be recycled.


3. Add Fuel Stabilizer And Drain Carburetor

Tip: You only need to drain the carburetor if your motorcycle will be stored more than 4 months. Otherwise just add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, run the bike for 10 minutes so it mixes and gets into the carburetor or fuel injectors.

Fill the tank with fresh fuel, but do not overfill. The correct level is when the fuel just touches the bottom of the filler neck. This gives enough room for the fuel to expand without overflowing the tank when temperature rises.

If you have a carbureted bike. Shut off the fuel petcock and drain the carburetors and the fuel lines. Add winterizing fuel conditioner to prevent the fuel from going stale, and help prevent moisture accumulation. Stale fuel occurs when aromatics (the lighter additives) evaporate leaving a thicker, sour smelling liquid. If left long enough, it will turn into a gum, plugging the jets and passages inside your carburetor!

4. Lube the cylinder(s)

Tip: You only need to do this if your motorcycle will be stored a very long time (6 months or more)

Because gasoline is an excellent solvent and the oil scraper ring has done its job, most of the oil from the cylinder walls have been removed since the last time the engine was run. If the cylinder wall is left unprotected for a long period of time, it will rust and cause premature piston and ring wear.

Remove the spark plugs and pour a tablespoon (5 cc) of clean engine oil or spray fogging oil into each cylinder. Be sure to switch off the fuel before you crank the engine or else you may refill the drained carburetor! Also, ground the ignition leads to prevent sparks igniting any fuel residue. Turn the engine over several revolutions to spread the oil around and then reinstall the plugs. Refitting the plugs before cranking the engine could result in a hydraulic lock if too much oil was used in the cylinder.


5. Battery Storage

 Motorcycles often have a small current drain even when the ignition is switched off (dark current), and a discharged battery will sulfate and no longer be able to sustain a charge. The use of a battery tender will eliminate this problem by keeping the battery at a level of good charge, prolonging the life of the battery

a conventional battery should be checked for electrolyte level. Add distilled water to any of the cells that are low and then charge the battery.

 
6. Surface Preparation

Waxing and polishing the motorcycle might seem like a waste of time since you are putting it away and no one will see it. But applying wax is a very important part of storing a motorcycle. Wax will act as a barrier against rust and moisture.

Don't forget to spray any other metal surfaces (such as the frame or engine) will a very light spray of WD-40. This will keep these areas shiny and protect from corrosion as well.


7. Exhaust and Mufflers

Exhausts/Mufflers are known to rust fast when they are not used. So making sure they are properly stored for the winter on your bike will save them from an early rusty death. Spray a light oil (such as WD40) into the muffler ends and drains holes. Lightly stick a plastic bag (shopping bag is fine) into the end of each muffler hole (to keep moisture from getting inside the exhaust). Then cover each muffler with another plastic bag to keep outside moisture off.


8. Tires

Check both front and rear tires with your air pressure gauge. Make sure each tire is properly inflated to the maximum recommend pressure. As it gets colder, air condenses in your tire so it is important to pump them up as to keep your tires healthy. Rubber is a flexible material and does not like to freeze (it cracks when it freezes). Placing 1/4"-1/2" piece of cardboard or wood board under each tire will help keep the rubber raised up from a freezing floor.

DO NOT use a tire dressing on tires (such as Armor-All or tire cleaning foam), as this will make the tires hard and slippery.


9. Service all fluids

If the brake or clutch fluids haven't been changed in the last two years or 18,000 km (11,000 miles), do it now. The fluids used in these system are "hygroscopic" which means that they absorb moisture. The contaminated fluid will cause corrosion inside the systems, which may give problems when the motorcycle is used next spring. Be sure to use the correct fluids and note the warnings and instructions in the service manual. If you don't have the experience to service these systems, contact your dealer, he will be happy to assist you.

If your motorcycle is liquid cooled, the coolant requires changing every two years or 24,000 km (15,000 miles). Make sure that the engine is cool enough to rest your hand on it before draining the system and please dispose of the coolant responsibly. Coolant/antifreeze is available from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection for your motorcycle engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a clean system for the next two years or 24,000 km (15,000 miles).


10. Cover it.

Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look forward to the first warm day of spring.


Back On The Road

Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do. First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the positive (+) cable (red) before the (-) negative and covering the terminals with the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Check for anything wrong on the motorcycle (cracked tires, broken parts/plastic, leaking oil). Set the tire pressures back to riding specs and you are ready to fire up.

As you don your riding gear, remember that your riding skills will be a little rusty and the road surfaces will have changed a bit since the last ride, so go carefully. Sand/salt deposits on the edge of the road and especially at corners may be hazardous.

Springtime - Time to Ride!

For riders of Harley-Davidson® motorcycles in Michigan, the onset of spring makes their heart pump just a bit faster because he or she knows that journeys out onto the open road are close at hand! But before you take your bike out of the garage for the first time, make sure that you check tire pressures, and adjust if required. Most Harley-Davidsons are equipped with Dunlop® tires, the cold pressures should be 36psi front, and 40psi rear. Also check for uneven tread wear, and any deterioration in the sidewalls and in the tread itself. This will usually show up as tiny cracks. If your tires are affected, you should consider replacement as soon as possible. Potholes and roadway heaving are things that happen every spring, and can be unpleasant if you are not paying attention. In the spring especially, motorists are not used to looking for motorcycles, so be conscientious. Also beware of winter salt, sand and loose gravel that has collected in and around intersections

Hot Weather Riding

Ah, summertime! Considered by many to be the primo time to set out for distant towns. But keeping your bike cool is almost as important as keeping yourself cool! Here are some tips on maintaining your bike for hot-weather riding:
Keep a close watch on your oil pressure - especially on very hot days and particularly if you're sitting in heavy traffic. 
Get more frequent oil changes in the summer. Nothing breaks down oil like summer heat combined with Harley® heat! 
Check your battery water levels more often. It will not only keep you fired up, it will help extend the life of your battery. 
Monitor tire pressure daily. Temperature changes can impact your tire pressure drastically. A good investment is a small, portable compressor specially made for automotive use. Many have on-board tire gauges, but don't trust them. Keep a good quality tire gauge on hand and use it! 
Remove fairings and other obstructions during high-heat seasons. Anything that restricts airflow in and around the engine will increase operating temperature. 
Your controls - particularly your brakes - will feel and operate differently at different temperatures. On really hot days, increase your scanning and following distances until you get the feel for the way your bike is operating under those specific conditions. Don't take anything for granted. 

Do's and Don'ts of Service and Safety

You can only "Live to Ride" if you keep yourself safe and your motorcycle in top condition! Your safety is of primary concern. Period. Bikes can be replaced, but you can't. Therefore, we have put together a comprehensive list of service and safety tips to help keep you out of harm's way and your motorcycle humming along. Here's some tips that cover everything from getting your bike ready for the road in the spring to putting it away for the winter. Of course, always refer to your owner's manual for specific instructions.

Pre Ride Checklist

Failure to prepare is preparing to fail. This pre-ride checklist - called T-CLOCK - is included in many rider-training manuals nationwide. 


T - Tires and Wheels: Your tires are the only thing between you and the road. Check your overall tire condition regularly, looking for tread wear, bulges, weathering, uneven wear and other problems. Regularly check your air pressure, spokes, rims and wheel bearings. Your tires are not the place to save money when you're talking about your safety. 


C - Cables and Controls: Check your throttle, clutch and brake linkages for wear and smooth operation. Also check the operation of your shifter, your brakes and the proper operation of your kill switch.

 
L - Lights and Electronics: Check your battery regularly as well as the wiring in general. Also check your switches, lighting and the operation of your horn. Keep extra fuses and bulbs handy, just in case. 


O - Oil and Fuel: Look for fluid leaks, keep an eye on your oil level (check with bike upright with the engine cold), and regularly inspect your air filter, fuel lines and your brake/clutch hoses and fluids. 
Check water levels in battery. 


C - Chain and Chassis: Check your chain for proper lubrication and tension. Give a once over to check your chain guard, your foot pegs, all accessory mounts, all your pin and clip attachments, your frame and your shocks and forks. Turn your steering back and forth a few times to make sure there's nothing wrong with your steering head bearings. 


K - Kickstand: For your jiffy stand, make sure it's secure, retracts fully, isn't bent and leaves you with enough ground clearance when retracted.

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This site was last updated 9/3/09